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Apakah yang anda ingin tahu mengenai Proton Saga FLX SE1.6???

100 Komen

Tak lama lagi Auto Anda akan membuat sesi uji pandu & review model Proton Saga FLX SE1.6. Apakah yang anda ingin tahu mengenainya? Sila berikan komen & jawapan anda. Kami akan cuba membuat penilaian mengikut apa yang anda inginkan… 😉

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100 thoughts on “Apakah yang anda ingin tahu mengenai Proton Saga FLX SE1.6???

  1. Kelajuan 2000 rpm.. Berapa km/h?
    Kelajuan 3000 rpm.. Berapa km/h?
    Kelajuan 4000 rpm.. Berapa km/h?
    Kelajuan 5000 rpm .. Berapa km/h?

    harap maklum kerjasama daripada pihak tuan amat saya hargai..:)

    • Berapakah kelajuan maximum yang boleh dicapai dijalan lurus dan rata untuk RPM berkenaan.

      2000 RPM –> Berapa max speed untuk RPM ini?
      2500 RPM –> Berapa max speed untuk RPM ini?
      3000 RPM –> Berapa max speed untuk RPM ini?

  2. 1) ape kah beza secara details antara saga fl 1.6 (yg ad line tepi tu) dgn flx 1.6. selain cvt, iafm+, abs, ebd. in terms of performance?

    2) bolehkah fl 1.6 diconvert ke flx 1.6, dari segi organ nye, bukan badan nya.

    • 1. FL 1.6 4AT, FLX 1.6 CVT, suspensi di ubah and tune, penukaran mud flap untuk tayar 15 inci,
      2. boleh…mounting sama jer dengan cvt.. cuma cari gearbox cvt, cvt intercooler, dan ecu kot coz 4at tak sama dengan cvt…

      • wahh, xyah la Auto Anda bagi komen cmni.

        bro taboogen, ad soalan lg.

        1) “suspensi di ubah and tune” – suspensi lain terus ke? ke tune je yg lain?

        2) oo, so cvt mmg boleh mount trus la eh. ok2. berkenaan iafm+ n iafm, selain ecu 16 bit n 32 bit, ad beze pe lg? ke mmg enjin tu lain, bore, stroke, etc2.

      • kalu tak silap spring dia keras skit and damper lain skit.. kalu tak silap lah..

        enjin 1.3 dan 1.6 sama jer block dia.. cuma stroke jer yang berlainan…

        kalu tengok harga pun tak jauh sangat beza.. bila harga tak jauh sangat… so perubahan tak banyak…. reduce lah cost… kalu nak tukar cvt jer kene ubah mounting… payah lah… ohh lagi satu… kalu 1.6fl takde abs.. nak tambah abs kene ada bracket.. kalu tak silap lah

    • boleh klu nk covert, cuma perlu tukar gearbox… use CVT Gearbox.. (VT2-PuncnPowerTrain) yg lain sama

  3. mana best bwk kete ni compare dgn vios?

  4. Saya ingin tahu bahawa adakah benar engine FLX ni (108hp & 150nm) akan ada pada Base-Line P3-22A hatchback nanti? dan pada “state-of-tune” yang sama pada dengan FLX ni?

  5. klu leh nak tau graph tork vs rpm dan bhp vs rpm bagi iafm + menggunakan transmisi cvt 🙂

  6. Nk tau dari segi penggunaan bahan api.

  7. minta depa buat 1 on 1 comparison test 1.6 FL dan FLX and to mix things up, ambik sebuah lagi kereta yang hampir sama dalam kelas and price range…

  8. eloklah bandingkan dgn fl 1.6 n persona 1.6 baseline dr segi performance, fc, r n h, creature comfort, nvh,pros n cons antara ketiga2 kete. Pastu cam biasalah,dah jadi subjek perbandingan kat malaysia, camne myvi extreme auto fair ngan flx se, buat drag n slalom test. Pastuh,test fc,jalan yg sama, cara pemanduan n speed yg hampir sama. Pastu olah dr segi value for money.

    • lain platform dah… mmg persona lagi best… so nanti bias ke persona…

      • mmglah persona menang,tp ini persona b-line versus flx se, so,masih ada ruang utk flx se,tp secara keseluruhan n peribadi, flx se menang berbanding persona b-line coz better equip at nearly same price tag.

        Bukan ape suruh komen neutral,nanti jd issue cam driven masa test exora vs alza n persona vs vios.

        Biolah penonton yg jd judge nak trime@x. Bukan aper,mentaliti susah nak ubah.

    • sy rasa flx se akan menang dari segi safety features (abs, ebd, dual airbag) berbanding dgn persona..
      tapi dari segi handling persona best lagi

  9. cume kesimpulan,bg neutral, nanti ada yg xpuashati. Biolah penonton judge dr tgk video test yg dibuat.

  10. 1. keselesaan pemanduan vs FLX 1.3 (sebab saiz tayar berlainan)

    2. pick-up dari stand still.

    3. rasanya ini soalan paling popular : berapa Avg FC, & berapa KM boleh pergi dgn 1 full tank vs FLX 1.3

    4. kalau boleh, sila buat sedikit comparison CVT yang digunakan oleh PROTON vs carmaker lain (based on experience yang buat review)

    terima kasih.

    p/s : tahniah kerana blog ini makin mendapat perhatian 🙂

    • Malaysia:
      FC first than safety features
      EUROPE:
      Safety features than FC

      Itulah hakikat sebenar. Tapi nak buat macamana, rakyat Malaysia bukannya kaya macam diorang kat Europe.

    • sy pernah drive VW , Audi TT TSI…. funtion CVT sama sj.. cuma yg membezakan adalah CC enjin & HP..
      bagi saya ini yg terbaik drp PROTON.. CVT Gearbox mempunyai kecekapan berkerja yg tinggi berbanding auto biasa (A/T)..
      u drive..
      u now..
      u feel it..

  11. accelerator pedal and brake pedal too near to the driver at the moment the steering is at comfortable reach. or when foot reach at the pedal is comfortable streath, the steering is too far.

    please verify this, thanks…

  12. Saya harap sangat deorg boleh tunjuk cara pemanduan/fc semasa penumpang penuh dan kosong. Dan kalau boleh buat flx 1.6 verse flx 1.3. Nak sangat tengok perbezaan 1.6 and 1.3.

  13. saga flx 1.6 ni ada multi info display ke x? kalu ada at least mcm persona pon dh kira bagusss…aku x pegi la showroom usha keta nie

  14. Is the steering tends to vibrate at rough road like the 1.3?

    • sorry,ni jwpn pribadi,bkn autoanda, its depend on how u define vibrate. If vibrate means plastic to plastic vibration, then it is fit n finish problem, ask sc to rectify it.

      If vibration u mean is feedback from the wheel where u can feel whats happening under ur car, thats call positive steering feedback, many, but not all malaysian prefer numb steering, but actually, positive feedback is better coz u will know what is happening under ur car and the limits of ur car. One of the cons is that if u going to bad b road as in malaysia, these feedback sometimes irritating for those who are not familiarise with positive feedback steering.

      All prtn that has lotus/prtn tune ride n handling will have positive steering feedback,actually one of active safety function,easy to do corrective actions when we feel the tyres are loosing traction. Isnt prevention is better than cure? :-).

      Too many aspect of ride n handling that we dont aware off,maybe if i have time,with little puny knowledge, we can discuss it in new post. It is not as simple changing spring and damper,added strentghen bar n etc. It is about the chasis tuning itself,even including the wheel ball bearing design will effect r n h.

      • hi mat79,
        So what you described is the natural characteristic of Proton handling? My initial thought from test driving is that the steering wheel is not tightened properly. The vibration is rather due to the rough road condition and was picked up by the steering wheel. This was not observed though on some other car makes.
        I do find the vibration rather annoying. Its like mentioning a car bounce aggressively on a bumpy road and was intentional for safety reason.

    • if you dont feel the vibration on the steering wheels then the driving will be unspirited… like jimmy clarkson said.. it does not connected to the road,, we will not know what is the tyre doing on the road…this is sports car characteristic… if you would like an artificial drving…. then you might op for perodua.. they are using electric power steering…. easy for the ladies.. hahaa

    • There are 2 type of power assist steering; Hydraulic and Electric.

      The hydraulic assist steering will always give feedback as there is a physical/force link between the road, steering rack and pressurized hydraulic fluid and pump to the steering wheel. Fluid pressure increases as vehicle speed decreases. Damping is dependent on fluid characteristic such as viscosity. One for the driver.

      An electric power assist system does not have this feedback. It regulates power from speed sensors and throttle position. It does have a lower mass/weight. One for the commuter.

  15. aku dah beli kereta ni.. dah dua minggu pakai.. kira ni based on owner experience..

    1. FC – memula dapat terus isi full tank Shell RON95, awal pagi.. RM50 (dalam tangki m..aybe RM50++) dapat pegi 346km town driving

    2. pick up rasa lambat sikit tapi bila dah sprint 195km/h relax je blh pg lagi..

    3. vibration kt steering rasa agak kuat lagi2 kalau jalan x elok tp mungkin ada faktor tayar nipis..

    4. body roll ada sket mungkin sbb torsion beam tp acceptable dan lg baik dr vios yg aku pernah drive..

    5. Ekon proton mmg lagenda sejuk nak mampus..

    6. noise angin agak kuat, bunyi tayar lagi la kuat maybe sbb tayar murah.. kalau ada batu kena kat fender tayar belakang, bunyi agak kuat masuk dalan sbb besi semata xde cover kat situ..

    overall puas hati la kereta ni.. sesuai dengan harga dia.. ni tgh makan, reply guna henpon.. nnt akan bg lg detail.. hoho.. kalau jumpa kt sungai buloh, wwe4436, tegur2 le.. hehehe..

    • pickup rsa lmbat betul ka..walhal 1.6…bwa 195kmh pdahal baru 2mggu pakai..

      • pick up dia rasa mcm getah sket.. tp tu sbb aku x biasa gear cvt kot.. sbb aku baca tentang penjagaan gear CVT kita x leh push terus klu dari stand still.. so bila aku engaged ke D, aku selalu biar dia gerak sendiri dulu then baru aku step pedal..

        aku memula sebelum 700km mmg ler dok bawak 80-90km seperti disarankan dalam manual.. tp sapa boleh tahan biler member guna persona m line auto ajak test.. aku tukar ke mode S.A.T, berdesup pg nye.. aku rasa dari 100km/h nak ke 195km/h xde la lama sgt.. berapa saat jek..

        pasal gear L tu pulak, dalam manual dia ada sarankan x leh lebih 25km/h, so aku x rasa itu sport mode selagi bkn org proton sendiri yg bg statement..

        setakat aku pakai, kereta ni xde apa2 masalah

      • pick up dia rasa mcm getah sket.. tp tu sbb aku x biasa gear cvt kot.. sbb aku baca tentang penjagaan gear CVT kita x leh push terus klu dari stand still.. so bila aku engaged ke D, aku selalu biar dia gerak sendiri dulu then baru aku step pedal..

        aku memula sebelum 700km mmg ler dok bawak 80-90km seperti disarankan dalam manual.. tp sapa boleh tahan biler member guna persona m line auto ajak test.. aku tukar ke mode S.A.T, berdesup pg nye.. aku rasa dari 100km/h nak ke 195km/h xde la lama sgt.. berapa saat jek..

        pasal gear L tu pulak, dalam manual dia ada sarankan x leh lebih 25km/h, so aku x rasa itu sport mode selagi bkn org proton sendiri yg bg statement..

        setakat aku pakai, kereta ni xde apa2 masalah bunyi2 ke apa ke.. cume kurangnye, dia bg tayar nipis, lepas tu air-cond xde utk kaki, kemudian aku rasa cat dia kalah dgn batu.. bunyi tayar agak kuat.. kemasan semua Ok.. bila aku wax dashboard, panel pintu dgn leather seat, nampak berkilat cantik.. rim 15″ jenis jari2 mmg sakit hati kalau nak basuh sendiri.. hehehehe..

        aku kalau beli kereta, aku bukan test kereta je, pusat servis pn aku test sekali.. setakat ni Pusat Servis Mesra Batu Cave mmg terbaik lah.. layanan mesra.. hehehe..

    • fyi… enjin baru tak sama mcm enjin lama…. dalam kilang dah tekan habis dah….. keter aku 1st day keluar dah aku tekan sampai 160kmh… dah 7 tahun guna.. takde masalah satu pun alhamdulillah.. kalu rajin baca bawah nie yer,. maaf takde masa nak translate

      Fyi as most of us follow this method(whacking/high revv) 😀

      Warning:
      This is a very controversial topic !!

      I wrote “Break-In Secrets” after successfully applying this method
      to approximately 300 new engines, all without any problems whatsoever.

      Links to this article now appear on hundreds of motorsports discussion forums from all over the world. The reason is that over time, large numbers of people have done a direct comparison between my method and the owner’s manual method, and the news of their success is spreading rapidly.

      The results are always the same… a dramatic increase in power at all RPMs. In addition, many professional mechanics have disassembled engines that have used this method, to find that the condition of the engine is much better than when the owner’s manual break-in method has been used.

      The thing that makes this page so controversial is that there have been many other break-in articles
      written in the past which will contradict what has been written here.

      Several factors make the older information on break-in obsolete.

      The biggest factor is that engine manufacturers now use a much finer honing pattern in the cylinders than they once did. This in turn changes the break-in requirements, because as you’re about to learn, the window of opportunity for achieving an exceptional ring seal is much smaller with
      newer engines than it was with the older “rough honed” engines.

      In addition, there is a lot less heat build up in the cylinders from ring friction
      due to the finer honing pattern used in modern engines.

      The other factors that have changed are the vastly improved metal casting and machining
      technologies which are now used. This means that the “wearing in” of the new parts
      involves significantly less friction and actual wear than it did in the distant past.

      With that in mind …

      Welcome to one of the most controversial motorsports pages on the internet !!

      How To Break In Your Engine For
      More Power & Less Wear !

      One of the most critical parts of the engine building process is the break in !!
      No matter how well an engine is assembled, it’s final power output is all up to you !!

      Although the examples shown here are motorcycle engines,
      these principles apply to all 4 stroke engines:

      Street or Race Motorcycles, Cars, Snowmobiles, Airplanes & yes …
      even Lawn Mowers !!
      ( regardless of brand, cooling type, or number of cylinders. )

      These same break in techniques apply to both steel cylinders and Nikasil, as well as the ceramic
      composite cylinders that Yamaha uses in it’s motorcycles and snowmobiles.

      What’s The Best Way To Break-In A New Engine ??
      The Short Answer: Run it Hard !

      Why ??
      Nowadays, the piston ring seal is really what the break in process is all about. Contrary to popular belief, piston rings don’t seal the combustion pressure by spring tension. Ring tension is necessary only to “scrape” the oil to prevent it from entering the combustion chamber.

      If you think about it, the ring exerts maybe 5-10 lbs of spring tension against the cylinder wall …
      How can such a small amount of spring tension seal against thousands of
      PSI (Pounds Per Square Inch) of combustion pressure ??
      Of course it can’t.

      How Do Rings Seal Against Tremendous Combustion Pressure ??

      From the actual gas pressure itself !! It passes over the top of the ring, and gets behind it to force it outward against the cylinder wall. The problem is that new rings are far from perfect and they must be worn in quite a bit in order to completely seal all the way around the bore. If the gas pressure is strong enough during the engine’s first miles of operation (open that throttle !!!), then the entire ring will wear into
      the cylinder surface, to seal the combustion pressure as well as possible.

      The Problem With “Easy Break In” …
      The honed crosshatch pattern in the cylinder bore acts like a file to allow the rings to wear. The rings quickly wear down the “peaks” of this roughness, regardless of how hard the engine is run.

      There’s a very small window of opportunity to get the rings to seal really well … the first 20 miles !!

      If the rings aren’t forced against the walls soon enough, they’ll use up the roughness before they fully seat. Once that happens there is no solution but to re hone the cylinders, install new rings and start over again.

      Fortunately, most new sportbike owners can’t resist the urge to “open it up” once or twice,
      which is why more engines don’t have this problem !!

      An additional factor that you may not have realized, is that the person at the dealership who set up your bike probably blasted your brand new bike pretty hard on the “test run”. So, without realizing it, that adrenaline crazed set – up mechanic actually did you a huge favor !!

      Here’s How To Do It:
      There are 3 ways you can break in an engine:

      1) on a dyno
      2) on the street, or off road (Motocross or Snowmobile.)
      3) on the racetrack

      On a Dyno:
      Warm the engine up
      completely !!

      Then, using 4th gear:

      Do Three 1/2 Throttle dyno runs from
      40% – 60% of your engine’s max rpm
      Let it Cool Down For About 15 Minutes

      Do Three 3/4 Throttle dyno runs from
      40% – 80% of your engine’s max rpm
      Let it Cool Down For About 15 Minutes

      Do Three Full Throttle dyno runs from
      30% – 100% of your engine’s max rpm
      Let it Cool Down For About 15 Minutes
      Go For It !!

      Frequently asked Question:

      What’s a dyno ??

      A dyno is a machine in which the bike is strapped on and power is measured.

      It can also be used to break in an engine.

      NOTE: If you use a dyno with a brake, it’s critical during break – in that you allow the engine to decelerate fully on it’s own. (Don’t use the dyno brake.) The engine vacuum created during closed throttle deceleration sucks the excess oil and metal off the cylinder walls.

      The point of this is to remove the very small (micro) particles of ring and cylinder material which are part of the normal wear during this process. During deceleration, the particles suspended in the oil blow out the exhaust, rather than accumulating in the ring grooves between
      the piston and rings. This keeps the rings from wearing too much.

      You’ll notice that at first the engine “smokes” on decel, this is normal, as the rings haven’t sealed yet. When you’re doing it right, you’ll notice that the smoke goes away after about 7-8 runs.

      Important Note:
      Many readers have e-mailed to ask about the cool down, and if it
      means “heat cycling” the engine.

      No, the above “cool down” instructions only apply if you are using a dyno machine to break in your engine. The reason for cool down on a dyno has nothing to do with
      “Heat Cycles” !!!

      Cool Down on a dyno is important since the cooling fans used at most dyno facilities are too small to equal the amount of air coming into the radiator at actual riding speeds. On a dyno, the water temperature will become high enough to cause it to boil out of the radiator after
      about 4 dyno runs. This will happen to a brand new engine just as it will
      happen to a very old engine.

      (Always allow the engine to cool down after 3 runs whenever you use a dyno.)

      If you’re breaking your engine in on the street or racetrack, the high speed incoming air will keep the engine temperature in the normal range.
      (In other words, you don’t have to stop by the side of the road to let your bike cool down.)

      What about “heat cycling” the engine ??
      There is no need to “heat cycle” a new engine. The term “heat cycle” comes from the idea that the new engine components are being “heat treated” as the engine is run. Heat treating the metal parts is a very different process, and it’s already done at the factory before the engines are assembled. The temperatures required for heat treating are much higher than an engine will ever reach during operation.

      The idea of breaking the engine in using “heat cycles” is a myth that came from the misunderstanding of the concept of “heat treating”.

      On the Street:
      Warm the engine up completely:
      Because of the wind resistance, you don’t need to use higher gears like you would on a dyno machine. The main thing is to load the engine by opening the throttle hard in 2nd, 3rd and 4th gear.

      Realistically, you won’t be able to do full throttle runs even in 2nd gear on most bikes without exceeding 65 mph / 104 kph. The best method is to alternate between short bursts of hard acceleration and deceleration. You don’t have to go over 65 mph / 104 kph to properly load the rings. Also, make sure that you’re not being followed by another bike or car when you decelerate, most drivers won’t expect that you’ll suddenly slow down, and we don’t want
      anyone to get hit from behind !!

      The biggest problem with breaking your engine in on the street (besides police) is if you ride the bike on the freeway (too little throttle = not enough pressure on the rings) or if you get stuck in slow city traffic. For the first 200 miles or so, get out into the country where you can vary the speed more
      and run it through the gears !

      Be Safe On The Street !
      Watch your speed ! When you’re not used to the handling of a new vehicle, you should accelerate only on the straightaways, then slow down extra early for the turns. Remember that both hard acceleration and hard engine braking (deceleration) are equally important during the break in process.

      On the Racetrack:
      Warm the engine up completely:
      Do one easy lap to warm up your tires. Pit, turn off the bike & check for leaks or
      any safety problems. Take a normal 15 minute practice session
      and check the water temperature occasionally. The racetrack is the perfect environment to break in an engine !! The combination of acceleration and deceleration is just the ticket for sealing the rings.
      Go For It !!

      Yeah – But …
      the owner’s manual says to break it in easy …

      Notice that this technique isn’t “beating” on the engine, but rather taking a purposeful, methodical approach to sealing the rings. The logic to this method is sound. However, some will have a hard time with this approach, since it seems to “go against the grain”.

      The argument for an easy break-in is usually: “that’s what the manual says” ….

      Or more specifically: “there are tight parts in the engine and you might do damage or even seize it if you run it hard.”

      Consider this:
      Due to the vastly improved metal casting and machining technologies which are now used, tight parts in new engines are not normal. A manufacturing mistake causing a tight clearance is an extremely rare occurrence these days. But, if there is something wrong with the engine clearances from the factory, no amount of gentle running will fix the problem.

      The real reason ???
      So why do all the owner’s manuals say to take it easy for the first
      thousand miles ???

      This is a good question …

      Q: What is the most common cause of engine problems ???
      A: Failure to:
      Warm the engine up completely before running it hard !!!

      Q: What is the second most common cause of engine problems ???
      A: An easy break in !!!

      Because, when the rings don’t seal well, the blow-by gasses contaminate the oil with acids and other harmful combustion by-products !!

      Ironically, an “easy break in” is not at all what it seems. By trying to “protect” the engine, the exact opposite happens, as leaky rings continue to contaminate your engine oil for the rest of the life of your engine !!

      What about running it in the garage ???

      Maybe you have a new snowmobile and it’s not quite winter yet, or a new bike and it’s snowing…

      The temptation to fire up a new vehicle in the garage just to “hear”
      the new engine run can be very strong.

      This is the worst thing for a new engine, in fact, my advice is:
      don’t even start it up until you’re ready to warm it up for the first ride.

      The reason is that brand-new rings don’t seat all the way around the 360 degrees of their circumference. The gas pressure from hard acceleration forces the rings to contact the cylinder around their entire circumference, which is the only way the rings can properly wear into the exact shape of the cylinder to seal the combustion pressure.

      Now, imagine if the engine is run in the garage. There is no load on the engine, so the rings are just going up and down “along for the ride”. Only a small portion of their surface is actually contacting the cylinder wall. The ring area that does contact the cylinder wears down the roughness of the honing pattern on the cylinder walls. Once the roughness of the cylinder is gone, the rings stop wearing into the cylinder. If this happens before the entire ring has worn into the cylinder and sealed, you will have a slow engine no matter how hard it gets ridden after that point.

      The difference between what happens in an engine running in the garage, versus one being ridden is a hard concept to put into written words, so if I may use the sounds that we all can relate to: it’s the difference between “zing-zing-zing” and “bwaaaaaaaaaAAAAAA”

      During “zing-zing-zing” the rings don’t get loaded for more than a split second, whereas during “bwaaaaaAAAAAA”, the engine is in 100% ring sealing mode.

    • saya pun pengguna CVT 1.6 SE,
      ride & handling memang terbaik,
      cornering mantap (lotus handling)
      absober STD OEM cuma coil spring tukar sport (GABs)
      perlu tambah bush & buffer pada coil spring belakang
      di sebab kn sy pakai R16 utk mengelakkn sagat.
      body roll memang jauh lebih baik drp vios

      dari segi FC sangat memuaskan.. @ RON 95
      12 sen / km pada kelajuan (90km/h – 110km/h) under @ 3000 RPM
      180 km/h @ 4000 RPM @ 6th gear
      Max speed 210 km/h @ FC 20sen/km
      sangat memuaskan!

      spec tyre 205/4/R16 Dunlop LM 703
      tyre ni senyap walaupun pada kelajuan tinggi
      cengkaman ketika basah sangat tinggi (treadwere 440)

      ape ape pun 1.6 CVT SE memang terbaik!
      sy pakai krete ni dalam DRAG

      FLX 1.6 CVT SE (putih)

      2nd Trofi in kategori Campro Auto
      at Melaka Track Day 2013 – Round 01 (8 June 2013 @ 3pm-4am)

      • proton mmg best…saya pakai flx executive…handling mmg best…tapi perlu penambahbaikan sikit dari proton dr segi interior…biar dashboard die guna plastik lebih baik seperti vios…i love proton!!

  16. yang penting macam forumer kata nak tau sangat pasal penggunaan minyak…yang ni off topic- tanya orang Proton kenapa tidak ada iklan exora yang higlightkan pasal gear 2 yang dikatakan bukan gear naik bukit tapi lebih kepada gear sport…bukankah ini ciri2 baru tapi kenapa tidak d hebohkan n akhirnya kereta ini cuma ada satu ciri2 baru iaitu gear cvt n enjin cfe…bukan ke proton dah masukkan orang marketing mat saleh tu..kenapa masih ada yang terlepas pandang perkara yang boleh di katakan sangat penting dan baru khususnya kepada persekitran proton itu sendiri..bukankah ini dah satu perkembangan yang sangat menarik tapi sayang Proton terlepas pandang…

    • gear 2 atau s driving.. nak define banyak sangat.. biarkan pengguna rasa.. bila dah biasa tak pikir pun gear tu tuk apa…. mcm ayah aku kata.. nak motong masuk gear rendah… tp dia tak kata gear brapa pun.. pandai2 jer lama2 tak pikir pun….. ni yg org kata subconscious mind… mcm engine braking sebenarnya salah kalau nak ikutkan (ni kata engiiner bmw kat german) coz fungsi utama brake kereta ada tuk menghentikan kereta bukan dengan geseran enjin… walaupun automoatic…. org kata half full or half empty… perkara yg sama.. pandangan berbeza….. biarkan ia menjadi suatu misteri……

  17. aku pernah nampak fire red flx ni, mmg cantik la, bukan mcm maroon biasa tp merah gelap sikit , siap ada shading gelap lak tu, kenapa jd mcm tu aku tatau, mgkn sbb efek pantulan cahaya kot

  18. 1.bila TARIKH autoanda ni nak review?

    2.byk sy baca dlm net brkata pickup lmbat walhal 1.6,btul ka..
    3.penggunaan myk, klu boleh bnding kn 1.3 cvt n 1.6 fl..
    4.perbezaan dgn 1.3cvt..

  19. 1.Rasa macam suspension dier keras skit berbanding saga blm 1.3 aku yg lama
    2.Pickup takde masalah..
    3.aku sangat suka dengan saga flx SE yang baru nie.
    4.saga blm 1.3 aku lagi jimat berbanding saga flx SE baru aku nie..

    rpm 2000 = 80KM/J
    rpm 2500 = 100KM/J
    rpm 3000 = 120KM/J

  20. http://www.simonhar.com/2012/01/driven-proton-saga-flx-13.html?m=1

    Offtopic:
    Review ni banyak mengatakan masalah kualiti FLX, saya dengar banyak improvement yang ada pada FLX , tapi review ni pula sebaliknya, kalau ada owner 1.3 FLX boleh buat testimoni bagus juga .

  21. owh betul ke L gear tu bukan sport mode…ceh tetipu aku….

    • x silap L untuk CFE je yg jadi pemanduan agresif. FLX lak x tau la.

      • Loorr yeke…tak best la kalau camtu…habis gebang cheap sport car…tak sport la…adoyai…

      • kalau dari manual kete aku tu, dia ada sarankan speed utk setiap gear.. D utk 0-160km/h kalau x silap (tp aku rembat 195km/h selamba je) dan L utk 0-25km/h.. jd aku x rasa la L tu sport mode selagi xde statement rasmi proton.. tp kalau tekan butang S.A.T kemudian pedal tu metal aku jamin melekat ke kerusi bila RPM sampai 4000.. hehehehe.. berdesup pg nya.. aku rasa S.A.T tu blh kira sport mode la sbb bila on je, RPM naik melompat2.. huhu.. tp aku x berani sprint sgt takut efek kt belt CVT.. lg pun aku beli bukan utk race.. utk kegunaan harian je..

      • cikgukamil195km/h…rpm berapa?

      • sama je bro…gear L tu memang sport mode, tak kisah la enjin apa pun dia taruk

  22. Napa lak bro takut nak sprint….belt CVT nie manja sangat ke…tak reliable la bro

    • kereta baru bai.
      mana2 kete pn, kalu baru mmg la org sayang.

      apa bukti xreliable?

      ps: cakap jangan mau flame saja.

      • dari segi handling camna..on par dengan persona ke tak? coz aku penah try persona 190km/h takde hal…perdesup..leh maintain

  23. Damper/Spring belakang tu dah setel ke?

  24. apa2 pn pada aku sbg tuan kereta flx Se nie terbaik berbanding saga BLM.saga FL,saga BLM 1.6,saga LF 1.6..bawak 120km/j rasa macam bawak 90km/j kereta saga BLM aku yang lama.Untuk butang SAT aku blm try lagi..baru 1500KM..bagi dier lama skit lg baru test speed n guna SAT..tp masa test drive ari tue mmg best bila guna SAT tue..tue yg rembat satu lg saga..haha..

  25. bro campro try tgk ni. Menarik ni.. proton di serata dunia huhu

    http://a4rzero.wordpress.com/

  26. bila date nak review ni..xsabaq dah nak tgk..
    sbab sy dah book keta ni..haha..
    kot ada mana xkena leh sy cancel booking..

  27. Best Auto Blog

    http://www.socialmediaweek.com.my/awards/category.php?id=17

    Bro,
    cer test power tgk..

    kalau boleh beat PT tu mmg THORRRBAEKKK ..

    hehe..

  28. bro tengok link ni. bnde2 mcm ni bnyk circulate dekat fb.

    tapi saya post kat sini sebab tengok source die tu XD

  29. erm,itu yg lemah pasal proton punya update,kat bukupun xupdate lg. L utk 0-25kmh tuh utk gear at biasa,dia x update dlm buku tuh coz yg taip dlm buku tuh bukan org powertrain. Mmg byk menda missout yg org pwrtrain kdg2 bengang. L dlm cvt mmg dah maklum ianya adalah sportmode, berbeza dgn 4 at biasa, L hanya ratio dia rendah(klu dlm figure dia tinggi),tp sebabkan ini cvt,xda fixed ratio cam 4at,walupun bwk laju,xda masalah. Ia hanya rev 20% lebih pada rpm standard dlm D,itu ajek. Bukan sahaja dah bincang ngan data dr vt1(asas pada vt2),dan telah diconfirmkan oleh org powertrain sendiri n tiada yg tertipu pun. Sbb itu telah diterangkan oleh pwrtrain kat media masa diaorg test drive aritu. Xcaya,bwk flx@cfe,masuk L.drive 25kmh,tgk brp rpm dia. Pastu,bwk fl 4at, masuk L, bwk 25kmh,tgk brp rpm dia.

    Ni yg rasa nak kata bangang kat proton,pihak yg buat buku manual,ada gak terlepas pandang,cam dlm manual bold,dgr cite,xda pun bgtau button mana nak tekan masa emergency bila engine breakdown@bateri kong.

    Em,berbalik kepada yg tanya kat atas pasal positive feedback pada steering, klu ssh ngat nak caya org malaysia ckp, baca autocar uk, tau x aper dia komen pasal steering feedback lotus evora, the feedback from steering is like its reading the road like reading braille. Nak quote yg betul,baca auto car uk. Dia ckp, membaca jalan mcm membaca braille,segala menda n inci yg berlaku dpt dikesan.

    Xkan evora steering loose. Klu steering loose,xperlu jalan teruk baru rasa,jalan biasapun dah rasa, bwk laju ckit rasa.

    Jgn banding ngan kete jepun,yg biasanya numb feedback,nak rasa,bwk type r. Paling senang nak banding, try ler bwk beemer sesapa yg ada.

    Erm, mmg trasa kasar ckit suspension coz stiffer,faktor tayar n saiz 50, klu up saiz 55,mgkin comfort skit,tp takut sagging plak nanti. Paling senang cari tyr yg lembut cam michelin@bridgestone.

    Xsabo plak tunggu thumbdown.

    • mungkin Myvi yang boleh terbang sampai naik atas van tu sebab feedback dari steering yang kurang sampai semua jenis jalan nak redah laju2…

  30. satu lg cikgu kamil,nanti klu ada kete yg menduga, cube jgn tekan sat, try dlm full D ajek, tapi pedal to metal. Sebenarnya, dalam sat,dia lebi kepada illusi ajek coz kebiasaan kita dgr bunyi, meter rpm naik turun,buat kita rasa cam power, cvt bunyi dia flat dia jek masa rev, tapi cube tgk speedo meter(bkn rpm),steady jek naik. Xcaya,masa kat traffic light, masa lampu tukar ijau,dlm D, cube tekan sampai rpm 2.5k jek, pastu cer tgk kete sebelah n belakang,jauh mana tinggal, pastu dlm situasi sama, tekan sat, tekan dlm 2.5krpm jek stiap kali shifting, cer tgk kete sebelah n belakang, banding dlm D mode, mana yg lebih jauh tinggal.

    Em,pasal L tuh, bro campro dah tgk camne eden rev flx se n bold cfe ke 160kmh dalam L mode.
    Klu 4at,L xdpt,abis tinggi 60kmh,pastuh,needle stuck,xleh g dah.

    Tp dah amik demo dlm d 2k rpm,drop L, dia jadik 2.4k rpm, mmg 20% rule apply.

    • owh.. yaka? kena try la ni.. tp risau gak sebab xda official statement daripada proton.. lg satu, L tu dia lock.. setakat ni just guna utk climb up hill je.. btw, kereta ni memang OK.. xde sebarang masalah pun.. ni proton era baru..

      • rasa cvt nie dia tak lock dalam L kot… dia kan continuous virtual gear, cuma dia akan rev tinggi skit dari D mode… cvt akan tetap pilih ratio yang sesuai mengikut kelajuan kereta.. takde lah meter dah 100kmh… masuk L dia turun ke gear 1… tak gitu

    • gear cvt mmg beza dgn gear 4at biasa huhu
      takde masalah kot, lama2 biasa la tu, L pun jrg guna…
      apa kata proton bg manual dlm bentuk dvd video / interaktif kat user, menarik sikit nk tgk..klu bg buku manual je ada yg malas nak baca..

    • Pengalaman:
      Baru CNY hari tu di highway,memandu di laluan kanan dalam kelajuan 120km/h ikut belakang Saga FLX 1.3 tiba2 satu myvi bagi signal masuk kanan,selepas myvi masuk balik ke laluan asal,saya terus padel to matel(D) sbb ingatkan Saga dihadapan saya masuk kekiri tapi jangkaan saya salah,saga tu sama juga tekan-

      -Pengerakan yang hampir sama dalam 120-160km/h,Teruja tgok pick upSaga ni .”1.3 CVT vs 1.6 4AT”

      *saya memandu Waja tahun 2005(4G18p)

      • isteri teman pakai myvi,adik teman pakai saga blm..kalu laju,mmg saga bleh lg laju..tp petrol sendiri mau igt la.huhu..kL ke k.trg rm70 tu.myvi rm50 dh boleh sampai.tp kalau saga bwk bwh 100km/j dr kL ke k.trg rm40 pun dh cukup..

      • Fuel consumption
        ni bukan cerita CNY hari tu:
        Contoh lain sbb sy mmg selalu outstation..
        Full Tank KL-B.Kayu Hitam+pusing Alor Star(masih ada belance setakuk lagi)
        6.9-7-2/100km (rough driving)-kadang2 tekan sampai Max speed 200km/h..

        *kereta stock/service x pernah miss sbb semua company tanggung+petrol.tq

      • teman keje KL.anak isteri kt trg.dlm 2thn ni mmg tiap2 2 mggu teman ulang alik kL ke k.trg.kadang2 ngan kete adik teman,saga.kadang2 ngan myvi isteri teman.kadang2 naik bas.lg jimat.rm80 je pergi balik.hehe

  31. seingat saya bwk cvt,L xpenah lock. Yg lock button tuh utk push kete dlm kes emergency coz cvt nih,xleh push walupun dlm keadaan N@neutral,kena tekan lock button utk unlock,klu x,nanti rosak. Sila rujuk bhagian kecemasan dlm manual,yg tuh rasanya utk flx dah update.

    Dlm cvt,bleh katakan xda istilah gear 1@ aper2 gear coz guna belt pulley, hanya pulley tuh yg immitate ratio,yg tuh jd infinite ratio,cume ada min n max ratio ajek.

    Yg sat tuh,dia bg fixed ratio kat pulley,pre set,tp sbenarnya xda limit,tp byk ngat fixed ratio xsesuai,enjin kecik. Tp nak dptkan fully power,better stick full cvt coz xda powerloss during shift shock n power engine maintain,so power n torque figure maintain. Klu dlm sat, power n torque figure pada enjin turun naik.

    Nak dpt fc terbaikpun dlm cvt, pastikan jgn rev melebihi 2k rpm@80kmh dlm kes flx coz kena ingat,dlm cvt,engine akan terus bg power ikut rpm, klu tekan terus naik rpm 2k,minyakpun terus kat rpm 2k,klu at biasa, minyak akan ikut rev,tp rev naik pelan2.

    Klu dh biasa esok ngan cvt, jgn tekan mendadak, tekan pelan2 kasi rev dia naik pelan2 ke 2k rpm dr 1k rpm, nanti akan dpt penjimatan minyak yg terbaik.

    Pemilihan minyak itampun amat penting, stakt nih,campro based(bukan cfe) disarankan 10w30, so, dgn budget yg ada,mgkin bleh dptkan minyak fully sintetik yg 5w30, klu ada duit lebih,0w30. Tp sepanjang eden mentesting, 5w30 adalah terbaik, kecuali suka naik genting@high speed memanjang, disarankan 5w40 coz heat range lg tinggi.
    Klu nak beli fully yg murah,bleh dptkan mgkin bardhal@penzoil,rega dlm rm100 dpt fully sintetik

    salam

  32. i think PROTON should no longer SE , they should use SV = SPECIAL VARIANT. OR VK = VARAIASI KHAS.
    SE is too typical.

    sound canggih, isnit.

  33. banyaknye komen kome….

    satu benda nak kongsi.

    Satria Neo 1.6MT @ 110kmh = 2900rpm
    Mercedes Benz 300SE 3.0L inline 6 @ 110kmh = 2400rpm

    Mercedes runs at a lower RPM – tapi jimat ke minyak? I don’t think so!!!

    • not a fair comparison,

      comparison should be the same body weight and same engine cc at least.

    • nak compare guna 1.8L CGI dan C-class …..

      saya boleh cakap mercedes boleh lebih jimat compare dengan cps

      • Tapi lagi lambat ler. Boring giler punye kete. Pakcik-pakcik aje bawak Merc woi. Pakcik-pakcik memang pakai pacemaker. Kete tu jimat bukan pasal enjin. Pasal drebar tak makan ubat lagi. Kekadang nak potong Merc takut terkejut drebar tu nanti masuk ICU risau plak ai.

        Ko tengok sapa naik Karak dulu. Merc ke R3?

    • exora bold cfe daptla figure mcm mercedes tu.. so mnyak jimat sbb cc pun kecik, turbo pn soft induction.

  34. this flx se can constantly be driven 140 on the highway without having to hear engine stress like the blm or fl. and its stable too with firmer suspension.

  35. saga flx se nie pakai enjin iafm+ ke iafm biasa…kalau confirm iafm+ leh pakai turbo exora bold….terbaik…

  36. pakai injin iafm+ tp stereng ada gegar sket…

  37. saga flx se ,harga murah tu yg syok nya ,yg tak syok nya .timming belt, dis brake dpn je, lain kira ok

  38. saga flx,, aku da apply loan,, tak tau dpat ke tak,, pada pendapat aku,, kite pkai kete,,, kne compare kete lebih dr 10 taun,, stakat nih,, kete yg aku ade test slama 10 taun ni la,,, proton wira dan perodua kenari,, wira,, lpas 10 taun,, wira kete bpak,, kenari,, abg pny,, wira,, tak pnah overhaul,, tp ade electronic die pnah rosak,, power window asik rosak,, cornering still sdap,, enjin leh pg 175 plg tgi aku pnah try,, standard je enjin nih,, kenari lak,,da 2 kali overhaul, electronic pon pnah rosak mgkin psl abg aku tuka radio,, power window same je asik rosak,, corner mcm nk terbalik,, maximum speed pnah wat 150,, beza enjin dr awal pkai dan skang,,
    wira pny enjin mmg sdap lg,, takde bnyi pelik2 mase start,, kenari,, aku tak tau dtg dr mane bnyi pagi2,,, kete lak jd makin berat,, kalo nk ikot kan bpak aku lg racer dr abg aku,, die bwak kat highway tak pnah bawah 130,,

  39. salam. boleh tak bg comparison antara saga flx 1.3 dgn viva elite? sebab saya nak tau mana satu lg baik dr segi spare part, penjagaan, maintainence,minyak, dan tahan lama. mohon fedback dari brader2 sekalian.

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